I know what you’re thinking, surfers are chill because they all smoke weed.
You’re wrong, very wrong.
In fact in my experience, it’s the clean living surfers (which is the vast majority) that are always the mellowest, in and out of the water.
But why is that?
Are they chilled out first, and then find surfing.
Or is it the other way around?
Whichever way you look at it, surfing is one of the best things you can do, adding purpose, meaning, and joy to your life in so many ways.
So if you’re stressed out right now, don’t be, as you’re about to find out why surfers are so chill, and why you can be too.
9 REASONS WHY SURFERS ARE SO CHILL (IN AND OUT OF THE WATER)
1. LIFESTYLE, NOT JUST A SPORT
People on the outside think that surfing is just a sport, like tennis, or golf, but it’s not, it’s more than that.
It’s a lifestyle.
Surfers don’t just surf and that’s it, they’re the living breathing embodiment of the sport - and all that comes with it.
That means fires on the beach, sunset beers, flat day rock jumping, travel to exotic places...
All of these things are frickin fun, and devoid of any stress (apart from the rock jumping maybe…).
2. THE BYPRODUCT IS FITNESS
It's well documented that exercise releases endorphins into the body, and this chemical is said to increase happiness, and decrease stress.
The perfect recipe for being chill right there.
More over, unlike other exercises you can do, the goal with surfing isn’t to get fit and workout, it’s a byproduct.
So you get all the good stuff, without any of the bad.
3. VITAMIN D A-PLENTY
You won’t find a surfer on the planet that is vitamin-D deficient.
Why is that?
As a byproduct of doing the sport that they love, they get plenty of exposure to natural sunlight, and all its juicy vitamin-D goodness.
So you’re not just working on your tan when you’re in the surf, you’re staying healthy too.
4. SURFING IS ZEN
The act of surfing itself is the perfect Zen practice.
You might have noticed how in the water many of the stresses of life drift away, the stresses of work, family, and everything else simply melt away when you’re in the surf.
It’s because the act of being in the ocean, by yourself, just you and the ebbs and flows of the nature allow you to escape the grind of day to day life - taking you out of your head, freeing you from stress.
5. MAMMALIAN DIVE REFLEX
There’s a biological phenomena in humans called the mammalian dive reflex (or off-switch) that’s triggered when immersed in water.
Here’s what happens:
And a whole lot more.
All in all, the mammalian dive reflex completely changes your physiology, reducing stress hormones in the process.
An involuntary response, that’s de-stressing you whether you like it or not.
6. ENCOURAGES HEALTHY LIVING
Surf culture used to be about hitting it hard, late night partying, and copious amounts of drugs.
But things have changed a lot since then.
Nowadays it’s all about the healthy living lifestyle.
And it makes sense.
The health benefits of surfing are well documented, and in order to do your best surfing you need to be fit and healthy.
If you’re waking up all groggy, hungover, and not at your best, that's just not going to happen.
7. THEY’VE FOUND THEIR TRUE NORTH
Surfers are chill because they’ve found their true North in life.
They’ve found the thing in their lives that gives them purpose and meaning, the burning desire that’s going to get them out of bed before sunrise, put on a wet wetsuit and jump into freezing cold water.
They’ve found their thing, and there aren’t too many people in life that can say the same thing.
This is the gift that keeps on giving for surfers, and it’s a big reason why they’re so chilled out the whole time.
8. YOUTHFUL OUTLOOK
How many adults do you know that play?
Not playing the stocks, or playing with themselves (lol), but actually carefree playing.
Not many am I right.
You see, surfers play like kids every time they hit the water, and this keeps the youthful exuberance emanating.
Surfers have got better things to do than blow leaves, vacuum the house, clean the bathroom - and all that boring crap.
They just want to go surf, the rest can wait.
Are surfers chill because they’re just avoiding the grown up responsibilities of an adult life?
Or is it precisely because they put surfing ahead of all the boring, mundane, stressful tasks that they remain happy, chill and healthy whilst everyone around them is pickled with stress?
Whatever the reasons, avoiding stress in your life can save your life, so never feel guilty, and never apologise for dedicating your life to the sport.
Rowan is the technical nerd behind the scenes. A lover of everything entrepreneurial, and living a minimal, simple life.